Monday 17 July 2017

Tianjin: A Pleasant Escape from Beijing

The latest adventure has been to Tianjin, a city only 30 minutes from Beijing via the high-speed train. In order to get there it actually took Eunju and I 40 minutes to get to Beijing South Railway Station. Alas, despite the close proximity of the city it felt like I was travelling internationally as you must present your passport when purchasing a train ticket – just another way for the Chinese government to keep tabs on people and this causes some delay. We arrived in Tianjin in the early afternoon.

291 km/h to Tianjin
We didn’t really have any particular plans for Tianjin, it was just 2 days away to spend together as Eunju had just returned from a month in South Korea. We checked into out hotel to discover we were sharing the room with Susan. Susan is a fish that lives in the room who has a sign beside her tank which stated that Susan welcomed us. Now, I’d already proposed introducing another female to the bedroom to Eunju, it’s just that I was hoping she’d be human. We had the pressure of looking after Susan, which I didn’t expect or need. It would have been big news in Tianjin had something happened to her, I imagine the headlines reading; “Foreigners comes to Tianjin, kill fish.” We survived the weekend, as did Susan.

Out into the city and Tianjin has an extraordinary European feel to it. The city is clean, quaint, and walking around makes you think you could be in London, Barcelona, Milan or Paris. This comes from European establishment around the 1850s. In October 1856, Chinese soldiers boarded a British registered boat called the Arrow on suspicion of piracy, the Chinese imprisoned the 12 crew and removed the British flag. The British, rather peeved at this incident, then decided to then take control of the ports in Tianjin. 13,000 British and 7,000 French naval forces fought off the 200,000-strong Chinese army to claim the ports. The British then opened the city to foreign trade. Today you can see European architectural reminders.

History lesson over, Eunju and I first decided to head to Tianjin Water Park. Not a water park, but more a park with water. It was really nice, but far too hot. Walking in 37°C heat isn’t advisable. We took refuge, with ice creams, in a small pagoda-ish type building and watched the elderly dance. They can really move! More and more turned up with baiju (Chinese liquor) and beers and danced away. It was thoroughlu enjoyable.


Strictly no romping. Eunju was gutted.


Soon after we headed to Porcelain House – an entire mansion decorated in china. It looked rather strange from the outside. A French-design building used to be home to a finance minister, then converted into a bank, now a strange museum. We paid our ¥50 (£5.50) to look inside and that was a waste of money. The inside has antiques stacked high with absolutely nothing of interest to see. While the outside intrigues the inside has a feel more like a furniture store. Save your money and look at it from the street.



We meandered around the city and along the river. The river side is a really beautiful place with old European and Chinese buildings in between the new sky rises of modern China. The river is also very clean, much cleaner than Beijing tap water anyway. The elderly people of Tianjin are very active, when they’re not dancing they’re swimming in the river. 




The people in Tianjin seem much more relaxed, nicer and happier. You sometimes forget that you’re in China. Just when you’re enjoying life you get an unpleasant reminder of someone hocking up phlegm. Yep, still in China. 

The following day, we got up late, ate some spicy Sichuan food and took a ride on the Tianjin Eye, a Ferris wheel which stretches across the river. It seemed like a good idea until we go inside the cabins. The glass intensifies the heat making it feel like an oven. The view was nice, but it wasn’t worth melting for half an hour.

Sichuan food is known for being spicier than spicy!


We got the train back to dirty Beijing. Tianjin doesn’t offer much in the form of sightseeing, but it was a welcome break from Beijing and I’ll have a favourable memory of Tianjin. 

Tuesday 4 July 2017

Six Months in China

The 9th of July marks 6 months in China for me and I’ve learned a few things about this bizarre country, culture and people. China is much like an orgy – there are too many people and it’s awkward when they stare at you, but the money’s good…for teaching not orgy participation. I don’t charge for the orgies.

Live Like a Chinaman

From my experience of living in Beijing, there seems to be very little concern for your fellow man. It’s a city filled with very selfish individuals all with the attitude “this is what I’m doing, deal with it”.

Sometimes it’s when drivers stop their car on a crossing making everyone walk around them, or smoking anywhere they want - inside or out - despite the no smoking signs, or spitting every 15 metres, or being my neighbour whose hobby is drilling every morning at 7am, or the lack of respect everyone has regarding personal space, or any number of bad habits locals have.

Another example of a Beijinger who doesn't care
It took a while to adjust to this way of life and it was causing my blood pressure to rise each day, but once you accept and act like a local life is much easier. Although, it’s something that I hope I leave behind when I move on from China.

A City of Blinking Lights

Chinese people love their neon lights, you’ve only got to walk around the city to see their admiration for a bit of neon or LED, but not so much when it comes to the cars.


Every car in the country is fitted with flashing lights on each corner, these are known as indicators and I’m sure as soon as one of the locals discovers how to use them they’ll soon catch on. Until then though, they’ll continue to switch lanes with their “fuck it, this is what I’m doing” attitude. Why use mirrors and indicators when you can save time by just drifting lanes as and when you please?

Feeling Like a Model

Despite a significant amount of moaning thus far I have a lot more self-confidence living in China. I think Brits don’t tend to give and receive compliments all that well. There is always an air of scepticism, suspicion or sarcasm with a compliment, but here in China I receive a lot of flattering remarks each day.

The most common one I receive is “you look like Chris Evans”. That’s very flattering…unless they mean the ginger Radio Two presenter then it’s just cruel.

Hollywood stunner or 51-year-old ginger? I'm still not sure who they mean.
I’ll take the positivity while I can get it as the last compliment I received prior to China was way back in October 2016 when I was in Thailand. I was sharing a bottle of rum on a beach with a girl from Ireland. She made it very clear that she had a boyfriend and that nothing was going to happen between us, I understood and was slightly relieved as she was hardly my type. After a significant measure of rum had been consumed came the compliment, she said “you’re not such a bad guy, Brendan, and if I weren’t taken we’d be doing it in those bushes by now.” Feeling pretty chuffed, she then continued “but given how much I’ve drunk I’d probably shag that dog too.” 

Still, you accept the compliments as and when they come.

The Chinese Revolution of Fashion

I’ve seen China in the winter and the summer and the fashions choices are none that I’ve really seen in western countries. They love an Arsene Wenger coat in the winter and in the summer clothing seems optional.

In the summer temperatures can soar to 40°C, so it’s totally reasonable to not wear a shirt or if you have a little more dignity to opt for the Beijing Bikini. For those not in the know a Beijing Bikini is when you pull your shirt up without a care in the world, but what I love even more than seeing middle-aged men’s bare mid-drifts is when the men of China ditch the shirt completely but keep their executive shoes and trousers on just in case they have to rush to a business meeting.


Waste Not, Want Not

I’ve heard the saying “Chinese people will eat anything with legs, except a table”. They turn their noses up at nothing. Maybe it’s because I was raised in a western country where I had the option not to eat something that didn’t look or sound nice. I remember being at school and one of the dinner ladies telling me that I had to have vegetables with my lunch, so at about 6-years-old I managed to convince her to give me one pea. That’s a weak dinner lady to give in to the orders of a 6-year-old.

Going to try Peking Duck? Expect side dishes of duck brain and duck bone soup (they taste exactly as you would imagine). Going to the supermarket? Expect to see every part of the animal for sale that western dogs wouldn’t eat. Fancy a snack? Why not try insects or poultry bills or fermented eggs?

Clockwise: How you buy chicken in a supermarket, a nice duck bill snack, which will go well with chicken feet, a century egg preserved in clay for many months, a pigs trotter in the supermarket, and fried seahorses and scorpions.

I’m only scratching the surface to be honest, anything you can imagine that can be hunted will be served on a plate somewhere in China.

Labour Exploitation

This place is so bloody cheap. Is it wrong to exploit cheap labour? Definitely, but it’s hard to avoid. Manufacturing is what has built China in the past few decades, I’ve exploited it no more than anyone else in the world, but it’s a pleasant surprise when you get a bill here.

Any form of labour usually costs less than a cup of coffee. A taxi across the city costs around £4. A cleaner for 2 hours costs £7. A man with a van helped me move apartments and charged me £12.


I live a privileged life. These days I don’t cook, clean, or take public transport and moving to another country might take some adjusting for my spoilt arse.

I Shouldn’t Have Said That…

To look around this city it seems no different to any other major metropolitan in the world. There is freedom of movement, freedom of choice, a wide choice of food options with foreign restaurants ubiquitous. Despite officially being communist China seems as capitalist as the west, or so it seems.

It’s something that I still haven’t gotten used to having been born and raised in Britain. I grew up in a country that allows true freedom and I find it bizarre that certain things are just accepted and other things are unquestionable.

A slip of the tongue can cause quite an earache here. I once referred to Hong Kong as a country to my students and they all shot me down. Stern faced they stopped me mid-sentence to say “Hong Kong is not a country.” Tensions are pretty high about that topic currently, so I keep my nose out.


I was feeling a little quizzical and was asking my co-workers about life in China asking question after question, which they seemed happy enough to answer. At what age do most people get married? How old do you have to be to drink? How old do you have to be to vote? A long pause followed that question, then I realised what I had said. People fought and died for their right to vote in Britain, but here it’s accepted that they don’t have that right. And whatever you do, don’t criticise China. China is number 1!

I’m currently experiencing modern day China, but I don’t know much about China’s past. That’s why I’m reading up on it. Always learning. I’m currently working my way through John Farman's Ancient China.

Yes, that’s a children’s book. I’m not doing a masters in Chinese history, I just want the basic facts delivered in a fun and informative way. I am reading adult books too, I’m not a complete imbecile, it’s just ancient history can be difficult to take in.

The Easy Life. Sort of.

A huge benefit of living in other countries is you get to see how other people tackle normal day-to-day things. My eyes have been opened to new, revolutionary ideas that make everyday tasks that little bit easier.

WeChat is the Chinese WhatsApp and everyone uses it.  This one app is used for everything, aside from the main function of communication it’s used for paying bills, booking hotels, booking cinema tickets, maps and navigation, ordering taxis, pretty much anything.

You don’t need bank cards and cash anymore.


Shopping has been made easier too. Using websites such as Jing Dong or Tao Bao, you can get great deals and SAME day delivery, no 3-5 day delivery times here.


While some things have been made so simple other aspects of life seem to have gone back in time. The visa process is unbelievable, 3 months of applications, interviews, more applications, signatures, approvals just to get a temporary visa, then to do it again to get the long-term one.

Renting an apartment is terribly annoying too. After you’ve gone house hunting you need to stump up three months’ rent, one month deposit, an agency fee, maintenance fees, it’s an expensive process! Quarterly rent payments are the norm which is another thing I had to learn.

The last six months has flown by and I’m sure the next six will too. Who knows what the future holds after that.


Until next time.

Longqing Gorge

Situated north of Beijing Longqing Gorge offers refuge for those tired of living in the polluted capital. Eunju and I had been planning on going for some time and had calculated the route there expecting it to take up around 2 hours by bus.

When I awoke that morning I felt rather uneasy with a minor stomachache. It wasn’t going to scupper my plans for the day and thought I’d be able to shake it off once I had a coffee inside me.

We boarded bus 919 and followed our progress on the map. We started to notice that the journey was taking much longer than anticipated, then we realised that we weren’t on the express bus. We were on the slow bus going around the houses. This very disappointing turn of events twinned with my stomach becoming more uncomfortable made for a disappointing morning. Three-and-a-half hours later we arrived.

We got off the bus in Yanqing and got a taxi to the gorge. The roads were empty – something I hadn’t seen since arriving in China. There was quite literally no one around which made it exquisitely peaceful. Then the taxi driver stopped and said that he couldn’t take us any further. Luckily we didn’t have to walk the remaining distance up the mountain roads as a man on a motorbike said he’d take us the rest of the way for ¥10 (about £1), a very fair and reasonable price to be propelled from a motorbike without any safety gear. Recent weather had been very hot, but this wasn’t the case in Yanqing. It was surprisingly chilly and by the time we’d gotten to the gorge on the back of the bike I was freezing. I was seriously considering buying a scarf, which seemed mad considering temperatures had reached 38°C only a few days before.

We had finally made it to the gorge. We took an escalator up the mountain, which I now think is definitely preferable to walking up.


We got aboard the boat that would take us along the snaking Gucheng River between the beautiful rocks. The scenery was truly magnificent, and the tour guide explained the history of the local area, or so Eunju told me anyway.



Further down the river and we were off the boat. At this pit stop were many exciting things that I was not in the mood for.

There were opportunities to go kayaking through the gorge, bungee jump off the top of one, or relax in a Buddhist temple. One way they tried to persuade people to do such adrenaline fuelled idiocies was to play very loud techno music. I suppose the logic is to play up beat music to get your blood pumping, and excited to make a mistake such as jumping off a 50m gorge with shoddy Chinese equipment. It didn’t quite have that effect on me.



Instead my stomach had just about given up and I was bordering on vomiting. Between the boat ride, the loud awful techno music, and the smell of burning incense from the nearby temple I was fully expecting to see the remains of my last meal. I was feeling terrible and was 4-5 hours away from the sanctuary of my bed. I wandered through the temple grounds and started to wonder if there would be anything more disrespectful than vomiting on a Buddhist monument. I managed to hold it together.


There was nothing else to do but make the slog of a journey back to Beijing feeling nauseous. I spent the rest of the day and the following morning between my toilet and my bed.

I was due back at work the following afternoon and got hit by a car on my commute to work. Not a bad accident, but enough of a hit to knock me off my bicycle.


It was not a good few days in the life of Brendan Fennell.