Sunday 3 January 2016

Christmas in the Philippines: Tropical Climates, White Beaches, and Midget Boxing

It was another Christmas away from home, but this year I decided to spend it in the Philippines. Trading in the bitter cold and snow for warm climates and white beaches. It was a good trade.

The Philippines consists of 7,107 islands. I managed to see a few of them but mainly from the plane a few thousand feet up. Unfortunately I’m not Michael Palin with the backing of the BBC and as I only had a week there I opted to visit the island of Palawan and the capital, Manila. It was a good thing that I was only there for a week, if I had stayed any longer people would have started to think that I was the first ever recorded white pygmy.

A huge Christmas party ensued upon my arrival at my hostel. Hog roast, cheap beer, a Bob Marley tribute band, and great company. It was a great welcome. Drinking games followed and after one of the guys won a £2.50 bottle of rum he said “you can’t go to bed until you help me finish this bottle of rum”. I couldn’t let the guy down. 



Christmas Day followed, no hangover, so a few of us took some mopeds up the coast to the beach. This was first real test on a moped with Nagtabon beach about 40km away. And allow me to quote the website that I booked the moped with “you can trust booking with [name of motorbike hire company] as our fleet is almost brand new and well maintained.” When I got the bike it had 100,000 kilometres on the clock and the brakes didn’t work. It had been ridden more times than Katie Price. Add to this that I only had an hour experience riding from the previous day, and the general lack of road safety in the Philippines it was a case of being thrown in the deep end. Riding in the Philippines is an event, you’ve got to be wary of; people, roosters, goats, cows, dogs, and the occasional market in the road, as well as the oncoming traffic as overtaking is very common and no one waits for a safe opportunity. They pull out when they want and toot their horn to signal that they are doing so. It was on the way to the beach that I realised that I forgot to organise my medical insurance before I departed Korea. (Sorry Mum, for obvious reasons I didn’t mention any of this when I spoke to you!)

Made it safely to the beach and back. Frolicked in the sea, and had a barbeque Christmas lunch.





On Boxing Day I left the town of Puerto Princesa and headed north to the small town of El Nido. A little known paradise surrounded by hundreds of islands. It was here that I did a boat tour and tried my hand at snorkelling. The idea of snorkelling seems really fun, you get to discover an underwater world of coral reefs, tropical fish, and sea turtles. But, in reality, it’s a bloody nightmare. The coordination that is required is untold. First, you have the unnatural sensation of breathing underwater (I never got used to that), then trying to film the occasion with my camera, all while staying afloat so that I don’t drown. I went back for a life jacket to eliminate the chance of death, and it was a bit easier. The guides have the cheek to tell you don’t touch the coral, but some of it is so shallow and the depth perception of the water is deceiving, so before you know it you’re dragging your legs across the sharp jagged coral, after which you then wince and panic and breathe in the sea water. And you go through all this to see some fish. It is much easier just to go to Pets At Home.

I spent the rest of the afternoon in the shallow waters, on the beach, and enjoying the incredible scenery. I know, I went to an amazing place and all I’m doing is moaning about it. 



My feeble attempt at snorkelling can be seen in this video.


A couple of days later I flew from the island of Palawan to the capital city of Manila where I spent my final day before I headed back to Korea. I only booked one day here, and I’m glad I did. There’s not an awful lot to see or do during the day in Manila, unless you like the look of a run-down city and churches. Getting around the city is a nightmare too, the taxi drivers are arseholes, and when you finally get in one you spend most of your journey in traffic. On my return journey from Fort Santiago I opted to take the metro - that was a mistake. You don’t know cramped train cars until you’ve been on the Manila metro. Tighter than a duck’s arse.

As the metro was too cramped I got a Jeepney back to my hotel. Jeepneys are American military vehicles left over from World War 2, now they are a popular means of transportation. The only requirement to drive one is that you must be mentally unstable. As the Philippines is a Catholic country the drivers have Christian reminders around the cockpit. The one I was in had a sign which read “Jesus will guide me”. Rumour has it that Jesus could perform miracles, but I don’t trust him to guide a 70-year-old anti-Nazi bus indirectly via a Filipino who probably traded his license for a few mangos and a couple of bottles of San Miguel. If the bus crashes, as an atheist, it’s the end of the road for me. Quite literally. I managed to walk away from another near death experience.

The nights in Manila are certainly more entertaining than the days. I happened to stumble across the dodgiest bars in the city and even found one that hosted midget boxing (their use of the word, not mine), it seemed like a sight not to be missed, and I was right. I walked into the bar to see some slightly overweight, scantily dressed girls dancing awkwardly in a miniature boxing ring. I ordered an overpriced beer and it was time for the fight, also refereed by a dwarf. The fight lasted three minutes. Three minutes during which I questioned, where am I? What is happening? Is this legal? It concluded a very peculiar night.



If you like dodgy bars, and aggressive prostitutes then Manila might be the city for you.