Tuesday 15 September 2015

Jeonju: My First FC Seoul Away Game, Jeonju's Hanok Village, and One Big Mistake

Without even realising it I’ve fallen into a new social bracket that is even more alternative than being a “hipster”. I have become a “football hipster”. That’s not to say I am a hipster who has an interest in football. You know the type, the self-confessed alternative thinkers who happen to read the same sources and then miraculously have the same ideas, who dress unconventionally yet identical to the other free-thinkers, but who happen to watch the occasional Manchester United match. I mean I am a football hipster. It was far too mainstream to stay in the UK and support my beloved Arsenal, I had to travel to Korea and spend my weekends following FC Seoul home and away, take in the Korean second division (the K-League Challenge) when there are no top flight games available, and listen to the latest episodes of 48 Shades of Grey, an English podcast on all things K-League. What have I become?

Karl and I chose FC Seoul’s fixture against Jeonbuk Motors as our first away game, and booked our places on the supporters’ bus.

At 9am we boarded the bus and it was time to pass around the beers and cocaine. Unfortunately the party-pooper bus driver had banned both substances so we had to resort to sneaking soju on and drink that discreetly.


The 400ish supporters arrived in force at one of the 2002 World Cup Stadiums, now occupied by Jeonbuk Motors. The game was disappointing from a Seoul perspective as Jeonbuk won 3-0. Losing an away game quite emphatically deflates the entire positive atmosphere of the day. It’s the same as having something that you really enjoy, a lovely bonfire for example, and then someone comes along and urinates on it, but you’ve had to travel three-and-a-half hours to witness it. That’s what the game was like.



The only remedy to our sorrows was more beer as we prepared for the night out in Jeonju. The night was a bit of a blur. It involved bar hopping, assisting a man with his bungeobbangs (a fish shaped Korean street food dessert), and ending up in a club where I achieved the amazing feat of falling asleep standing up (I had been drinking for 16 hours or so).

The guy left his stall to get change, and we filled in for him.
The next day came round (no hangover), and we explored the Jeonju’s famous traditional-style Hanok village. Eating the local food, and reading about the history was mildly interesting.




I have to admit that something terrible happened that weekend. Blog followers, after reading this you may lose all respect for me. You should be preparing to delete me as a friend on Facebook, to burn any evidence of our friendship, and if you see me I would understand if you violently attacked me in the street because…I’ve…put on traditional Korean clothing and posed for pictures. I’m sorry.


I’ve been in Korean for over a year and every time I’ve seen a foreigner wearing the clothing I cringe. The outfit is called a Hanbok, it is usually worn for special occasions and earliest murals of them date back to the 3rd Century BCE. They are guaranteed to make all foreigners look like utter twats. I am now a member of that undesirable club.


Karl talked me into it. “C’mon, it’ll be a laugh!” Yeah, and it was, for everyone else in Jeonju! I hadn’t even got it on yet without feeling like a knob.

The only benefit of wearing one was that we got a lot of attention from some average looking females who wanted photographs with us.


After sheepishly meandering around we went back to the rental shop, and handed them back (sweaty, thus confirming the stereotype that all Caucasians sweat (sorry white people, I had a lapse of concentration and now more people know of our shameful, clammy secret)).

Mistakes were made on this trip. Another checkbox ticked, and another which I wish remained unticked, but shall forever dishonourably hang over my head.